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| Numerical modeling of waves in surf zone |
| Revised:May 24, 2005 |
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| DOI：10.7511/jslx20072039 |
| KeyWord:Boussinesq model,wave breaking,surf zone,shallow water |
| MA Xiao-zhou DONG Guo-hai TENG Bin |
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| Abstract: |
| Based on a set of enhanced fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations,a numerical wave model is established in this paper,which features the capability of modeling various wave transformations such as shoaling,breaking and runup on the beach.An eddy viscosity term,which is spatially and temporally localized to the front face of the wave,is added to the momentum equation serving as wave breaking force term to simulate the dissipation of energy due to wave breaking.The moving shoreline is treated with a slot method.Run-up of non-breaking waves is verified against the analytical solution for nonlinear shallow water waves.The model is applied to study various types of wave breaking on the plane sloping beaches.The comparison of computed results comprising the variations of wave height and mean water level along the flume and the experimental data is conducted and their agreement is very good. |
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